“I’m into the ocean, I’ve always believed in its healing powers. It has proved therapeutic for people with physical and mental disabilities, for veterans returning from war, for everyone.” – Jack O’Neill I owe a huge thanks to Jack O’Neill for setting in motion the evolution of cold water surfing. As a pioneer in the development […]
Tag: Legends
“Seek And Find The Perfect Day, The Perfect Wave” – RIP John Severson 1933-2017
“In this crowded world the surfer can still seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts” – John Severson Surfing lost a culture shaping legend this week. John Severson was the original influencer, founding SURFER Magazine in the early 1960s as a follow-up to a photo based booklet […]